There's a fish store in town called Claws that always has a line. It's a couple of years old. There's always been some fish store there, but most failed, while this one has tremendous success. They renovated the parking area to include picnic tables and live music on the weekends, and installed a side window so people can order fried and broiled fish, clams and mussels and other seafood. Inside, the fish is really fresh. The display always has some enormous catch that changes almost daily, so you know fish is coming in very day. I go in about three days a week. Yesterday there was a woman in the store who wanted a certain fish they did not have, and the clerk suggested marlin. She'd never had marlin and was afraid to commit to it (at around $17 a pound). The clerk said, "Let me cook you a sample." She said, "Really?" It got my attention, too. My thought was: that is a very smart thing to do. You'll never get that service at a grocery store fish counter, or at most fish stores. I wouldn't even look for another place to buy.

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